Based on a similar article
from Mason-Dixon Knitting and using the same pictures
PLY
Yarn
is often defined by the number of ply in the strand. Ply does
deep-down delectable things to your knitting. It can transform color,
texture, durability, weight, and stitch definition. You can change
how your knitting looks just by changing the number of plies in your
yarn. When you choose a yarn for a project, you may make your decision
based on durability, weight and stitch definition.
Multiple-plied yarns are more durable, less susceptible to pilling
(forming small balls of fluff) than single-plied. A single-ply yarn
knit into fabric stands alone against the stretching and rubbing of
the world. By twisting strands together, each strand has a lot less
of its surface exposed, and they are able to stand strong against
pilling.
Plying can contribute to the weight of a garment. Want a light
sweater? Don’t look at a five-ply yarn. There is an exception to
this (isn’t there always?): a multi-plied yarn is lighter than a
single-ply yarn of the same size. Why? There is air between those
plies, and the single-ply is just one solid chunk of fiber.
The sweetest spot of plied yarns is in stitch definition.
Depending on the number of plies in your yarn the finished knitted
fabric will look, sometimes dramatically, different.
Single-Ply, 2-Ply, and 3-Ply
Today’s yarns are single-ply (spinners call these
singles), 2-ply and 3-ply yarns. There are lots of other
yarn constructions, yarns that are wrapped, cabled or chained. Those
are for another day. Today we’re discussing the big three.
Yarn is built from energy, which we talk about as twist.
Single-ply yarn has a single twist in one direction and plied yarns
have two twists, one to create the single (in one direction) and one
to create the ply (in the opposite direction). These twists create
shape and motion in the yarn and contribute to the look and
performance of knitted fabric.
Single-ply yarn has a roundish shape that can flatten easily. It
has motion in only one direction, which can cause biasing when knit,
if there is too much twist in the yarn.
Two-ply yarn is oval in shape. The ply twist moves the strands
outward, they push away from each other when knit.
Three-ply yarn is round in shape. The ply twist moves the strands
inward, they push toward each other when knit.
Ply in Stockinette
Single-ply (left): Single-ply
yarn is smooth and stays where you put it when blocked; the stitches
line up nicely. In stockinette stitch, it shows every weirdness in
your knitting. My knit and purl tension is very different, and it
really shows in stockinette with a single-ply yarn. This is the
stitch that will bias if there is any over-twist in the yarn.
Sometimes you can block it out, sometimes you can’t.
Two-ply (center): Two-ply yarn has a textured
surface. There is no bias with a 2-ply yarn because the plies
balance the twist. But because of the outward motion of the two
plies pushing away from each other, there is a lot of visual
movement on the surface of the knitted fabric. It looks toothy and
organic.
Three-ply: Three-ply yarn is round and creates even
fabric. The stitches line up and the surface of the knitting is
smooth and placid. Look at the difference in the look of 2-ply and
3-ply yarn in stockinette. The 2-ply is rocking the soul train to
funky town, and the 3-ply is ballroom dancing a serene waltz.
Lace
Single-ply: Single-ply yarns are obedient. When you
block them into lace, they stay. Because single-ply yarn sometimes
flattens and it doesn’t have the extra shadows between plies, the
lace has a much softer, less crisp look.
Two-ply: The obstinate attitude that makes a
2-ply yarn so frisky in stockinette makes it a glorious yarn for
lace. The stitches roll away from each other; opening the lace
holes. The surface playfulness leads your eye all over the lace
pattern.
Three-ply: The roundness of a 3-ply makes smooth
lace. The inward twist energy of a 3-ply yarn makes the stitches
roll toward each other, causing the lace holes to try to close. So
3-ply yarn makes textured stitches stand out in bold. When you look
at a lace pattern knit in a 3-ply yarn, the first thing you see are
the decreases gorgeously stacked up, overpowering the lace.
Cables
Single-ply: Cables knit out of a single-ply yarn are
soft and flat-ish. A good look for a light summer top, but not what
I want for an Aran sweater.
Two-ply: A 2-ply cable is a big step up from a
single-ply cable. There are edges to these cables, but they really
don’t stand up.
Three-ply: A 3-ply (or more) yarn makes the best
cables and textured stitches. They roll in and push up. Three-ply
yarns make themselves heard. They are crisp, have sharp edges and
stand up like the
Cliffs
of Moher.
Colorwork
Single-ply: Single ply yarns are soft and flow-y when
used for any kind of color work. The lines between stitches are
undefined because the yarns spread out. This contributes to the
classic look of Lopi sweaters, in which colors seem to flow into
each other.
Two-ply: The pushing away motion of a 2-ply yarn leads to
soft blurry edges between colors. Two-ply yarn is fantastic when you
want that misty-water-color-memory look for Fair Isle or Bohus
knitting.
Three-ply: Three-ply colorwork knitting has crispy
clean edges. Each stitch is distinct, making colors very clear.
Three-ply is great for intarsia, or if you want your Scandinavian
snowflakes to really stand out.
It’s exciting that an attribute that is so easily overlooked
can have such impact on knitted fabric.
Which ply will you choose for your next knit?
